Franck Balthazar took over from his father in 2002 and with the addition of century-old vines courtesy of his uncle Noël Verset—among the most influential names in Cornas—he has quickly become a culty icon within the appellation. What's more, his ancient raw material hails from Chaillot, a top-two site in Cornas, and his top wines are vinified with whole clusters and aged mostly in large casks, creating that just-right balance between fine tannin, complex fragrance, and impeccable balance. His “Cuvée Casimir” is an homage to his grandfather, and shows surprising density and poise for a young-vine wine. In the glass, this 2017 emits a bright purple hue with aromas of spice cake and incense. Black and blue fruits dominate the entry and mid-palate with hints of black tea, cracked pepper, and cured meat. Fine-grained tannins allow this Syrah to be extremely approachable now with a 30-60 minute decant, but as with all serious, blue-chip Cornas, the real joy lies a bit further down the road.