Sometimes a wine just demands to be taken seriously. We were already inclined to think today’s Sancerre from the great Domaine Daulny would be tasty, given this property’s stellar reputation, but this 2018 stopped us all in our tracks. This goes well beyond “good” and into the realm of the profound.
It’s as though Daulny compressed the flavor of 3 or 4 bottles into just one, such is the density of this single-vineyard bottling from the “Clos de Chaudenay.” The 2018 vintage in the Loire is already becoming the stuff of legend, so that is certainly a factor with this bottling, but this is more than just good weather. We are well aware that Sancerre can rise to this level (we have extolled the virtues of this classic region since day one), but you would typically pay double today’s number for that privilege. For the depth and density that this wine offers, a price tag of less than $35 a bottle is an absolute steal. With that in mind, plus the fact that this wine is going to continue to age and evolve for the next 5-7 years, I recommend getting at least a few bottles to have on hand. Once you pop the first cork, you will be relieved to know that more are waiting in the wings!
Étienne Daulny is based near the village of Verdigny, just north of the town of Sancerre. Among the 16 hectares of vines Daulny owns, there are 50 plots scattered across the Sancerre appellation area, including prime parcels in the well-known vineyards “Les Monts Damnés,” “Les Bois Butteux,” and “La Perrière.” Amazingly, fruit from these locations goes into Daulny’s entry-level Sancerre blend. The vineyard featured in his top single-vineyard bottling is a walled site called “Clos de Chaudenay” (rough translation: “hot-spot”), which is located next to the Daulny winery. In addition to its south-facing exposition, the site has an especially high percentage of Kimmeridgian limestone. This ancient marine soil is found in Champagne, Chablis, and Sancerre, with this particular ridge starting in the village of Bué and running through Chavignol and Verdigny. Sauvignon Blancs grown on Kimmeridgian soils tend to yield the most powerful, longest lasting wines, containing both ripe fruit and sturdy acidic structure built for aging.
In the vineyard, Daulny works traditionally, harvesting everything by hand and keeping his yields low compared to most growers in the region. All his wines are fermented in stainless steel tanks and without malolactic fermentation, to preserve freshness. Étienne knows that with the Clos de Chaudenay, he is dealing with something more than just another Sancerre and he treats it as such. Accordingly, he ages 20% of the wine in used 600 liter barrels (demi-muids) adding texture and richness with the additional oxygen, a practice employed by other renowned growers in the area such as François and Pascal Cotat.
The resulting wine produces a color in the glass that is pale straw with just a few glints of honeyed gold. This wine is delightful right out of the bottle but I encourage a 30-minute decant (or longer) to really get to the full technicolor spectrum of flavors and aromas that this wine contains. On the nose there are some of the tell-tale Sauvignon Blanc aromas of grapefruit along with elements hinting at the depth and power of this particular wine: cantaloupe, créme fraîche, lime zest, and Meyer lemon curd. The palate is when things start to get really interesting as the taut mineral spine drives through the palate but comes along with richer, slower developing textures of marzipan, pear, and orange blossom honey. The overall impression is that of chunks of chalk slathered with rich lemon butter. This is immensely satisfying, crunchy Sauvignon Blanc but with a serious side. I definitely want to drink this wine chilled, but a few degrees warmer than other Sancerres to appreciate the myriad elements present, around 50 degrees. While all-purpose glasses suit this admirably, don’t be afraid to get out the Burgundy glasses for a more complete experience. This wine will pair well with a variety of lighter fare but I recommend a flaky white fish, perhaps baked cod with lemon and herbs. This is as classic as it gets! Enjoy!
