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Russell Joyce, “Small Lot Collection” Gamay Noir

Other, United States 2019 (750mL)
Regular price$29.00
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Russell Joyce, “Small Lot Collection” Gamay Noir

Not only is Russell Joyce’s “Small Lot Collection” the cutting-edge of organic, micro-production California reds, it crushes and even embarrasses the overwhelming majority of Cru Beaujolais in the value department. For me, its charm and spellbinding aromatic purity is rivaled only by a few producers—with the legendary “Gang of Four” coming to mind: Foillard, Lapierre, Thévenet, Breton. Decades ago, this quartet of producers were elevated to elite status for their advocacy of natural farming and old-school winemaking. What's more, at a recent event in Pebble Beach with some of the world’s top blind tasters, the argument over today's exceptionally refreshing and traditionally crafted small-batch Gamay wasn’t California vs. Burgundy but rather which of the “Gang of Four” had crafted it.


Who can blame them? Russell Joyce’s goal from the outset was to recreate these rarefied reds with natural farming, organic grapes, whole-cluster fermentation, neutral barrels, and zero manipulation. The limited result is an ultra-pure Gamay that seemingly moves from two dimensions of fruit and minerality into an eye-opening third dimension led by textural intensity, freshness, and shocking energy. We have a strong hunch that SommSelect’s Burgundy-loving contingent will fall madly in love with this $29 showstopper, and that it will deservedly take the sommelier nation by storm. That is, if quantities allow it: Only 280 cases were produced, few remain.


As I’ve noted before, we see patterns develop as we taste our way through California. Lately, Monterey and San Benito have been top-of-mind, with Joyce’s no-frills, superbly refreshing small-lot Gamay being the latest in a long line of truly memorable releases from the region. We’ve featured several gems from Ian Brand, San Francisco Chronicle’s 2018 “Winemaker of the Year,” and from Master Sommelier (and SommSelect contributor) Chris Miller, who’s gone “all-in” on Monterey at Seabold Cellars. And then there’s sommelier/vintner Ted Glennon (Vöcal Vineyards), who, in addition to his own wines, introduced us to the Carmel Valley-based Joyce Wine Company years ago. There’s a reason serious wine people—especially those wanting to make Burgundy-inspired wines—are going all in on these “south of the bay” AVAs. 



In fact, there are many reasons: (1) it is one of the coolest climates in California, with one of the longest growing seasons in the US; (2) it is home to some of the only pockets of limestone soil in California; and (3) it is still a place where world-class wine can be made at a remarkably low price. Joyce’s 2019 Gamay hails from San Benito County, from a single, organically farmed vineyard that pushes up against the Diablo range on a soft slope. The Gamay was grafted on in 1983, so at 37 years of age, these vines have absorbed great wisdom and character. In the winery, it’s not much different than what you’d see from one of Beuajolais’ organic/natural wine leaders: the 100% hand-harvested, whole-cluster grapes fermented ambiently and no sulfur was added during vinification. Russell then transferred the wine, via gravity, into a combination of old French barrels and concrete vessels for several months of aging. It was bottled with a micro-dose of sulfur, without any fining and filtration.



The first thing you may notice on the label is the 11.1% ABV, which may lead you to believe the wine will be tart and perhaps “too light” in order to impart serious flavor. I would highly advise you to reconsider your snap judgment: This 2019 Gamay is incredibly deep and delicious with a pronounced bolt of energy surging through every sip. Because it was crafted without manipulation and is still less than a year old, we advise you to vigorously decant and wait 30-60 minutes before pouring into large Burgundy stems around 55-60 degrees. In the glass, breathtakingly pure notes of high-toned cherry, raspberry, candied strawberry, violets, rose petal, white pepper, grape stem, and crushed rock unfold with superb grace. The wine simply outmatches the lion’s share of $30-something Cru Beaujolais, and does it in style. If Burgundy is constantly in your drinking rotation, the extraordinary finesse and freshness of Russell Joyce’s Gamay will leave you stunned—guaranteed—and open your eyes to a new and exciting terroir. Enjoy now and over the next 2-5 years. Cheers!
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