This 3-hectare family estate has been farming all its own fruit and producing Margaux for over 300 years. You simply don’t find growers this small, with so much history, and attention to detail very often; let alone in the elite growing appellation of Margaux. This is a special wine, and a remarkable value in what has become an extremely price-inflated category. Along with neighboring Saint-Julien and Pauillac, Margaux was a defining inspiration behind Cabernet Sauvignon’s conquest of the new world in the 20th century and remains a standard against which other Cabernet-based wines are judged. This 2012 is just hitting its sweet spot—it’s a testament to how in the right vintage, Margaux produces among the most perfumed and elegant wines in Bordeaux.
Chateâu Moulin de Tricot is one of the last small family properties producing traditional, hand-made examples of Margaux. Established in the 1800’s, this family only bottles one wine from the appellation. No reserve bottlings, no second labels, no purchased fruit, and no BS. The current generation of vignerons, Bruno and Pascale Rey, farm a small 3-hectare parcel of Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot planted on Bordeaux’s sandy gravel soils. Bruno and Pascale’s forebearers have been planting and replanting this same vineyard since the mid-1800s, but the average age of vines is currently 35 years old. All fruit is organically grown, harvested and sorted by hand. Fruit is destemmed before fermentation in stainless steel tanks with no addition of synthetic yeasts. After the juice is pressed off the skins, it is returned to the same tanks to undergo natural malolactic fermentation. Finally, the wine is racked into a collection of small, neutral oak barrels where it ages without filtration until bottling. In general, the process takes 3-4 years between harvest and the release of a mere 300 cases to North America.
Before any specific discussion of the wine’s appearance or aromatics, I first want to stress that this wine has extraordinary cellaring potential. The few older bottles of Moulin de Tricot Margaux I’ve enjoyed over the years have been stunning, with an extra dose of mystery and aromatic complexity that simply isn’t achievable with young Bordeaux. So, before anything, I want to make it clear that this wine—like all top Bordeaux reds—will undoubtedly reward those wise enough to set aside a few bottles in the back corner of their cellar. Trust me on this one!
The 2012 Chateâu Moulin de Tricot Margaux has a dark opaque garnet red core, with slightly lighter garnet reflections on the rim. This wine has had some time to rest and is now alive and breathing fire: Savory aromas of blackcurrant, plum, wet violets, wet tobacco leaf, graphite, cedar, and forest floor erupt from the glass. Moulin de Tricot has produced yet another truly classic and traditionally styled Margaux. This wine is all about elegance, class, finesse and structure; there are no jagged edges or dropped stitches of any kind. It’s a perfectly detailed and sublime wine. The tight-knit layers of tannin, the long and sonorous finish, and the impossible silkiness and luxury on the palate—this is a profound, sophisticated and powerful wine that expresses every once of the legendary Margaux terroir. Please decant for at least one hour before serving at 60 to 65 degrees in large Bordeaux stems. Cheers.