For lovers of Pinot Noir that is bursting with heady perfume and dripping with textural elegance and finesse, there is no better address in the world than Chambolle-Musigny. This village, synonymous with silky, sexy Burgundy that is redolent of dried flowers and exotic spice, is also home to some of the most acclaimed domaines in France. About 20 years ago the storied and venerable estate of Pousse d’Or joined those ranks when it purchased the vineyards of Moine-Hudelot, and thanks to that fortuitous transaction we have for you today a truly rare opportunity: A library release of their limited bottling of Chambolle, in a convenient for anytime half bottle format. Perfect for a quiet dinner for one or two, these halves are hitting their peak drinking window and can turn any meal into a regal, revelatory experience. But be sure to grab as much as you can, because once they’re gone, they’re really gone.
Domaine de la Pousse d‘Or is one of the oldest and most respected producers in all of Burgundy. Although the house has changed hands multiple times during the past millennium, they have been producing legendary wines since the famous Dukes of Burgundy reigned back in 1100. In the Volnay appellation, the Domaine, once connected to the likes of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Clos de Tart, has continually, and impressively, maintained exclusive ownership of the famed, “Clos de La Bousse d’Or,” Premier Cru vineyard site for centuries. One of the most storied and historic sites in all of Burgundy, it has been protected by a picturesque stonewall since the time in which it was tended by the monks.
The property’s resurgence and modern-day fame came in the mid-20th century when Gérard Potel married into the estate in 1964 and began laying a solid foundation. Upon his death 33 years later, the estate was handed over to Patrick Landanger. Over the decades, he worked tirelessly to (1) acquire some of the best parcels, even foregoing winemaking in the first couple of vintages to seek out prime sites, (2) convert the holdings into biodynamics, and (3) craft resolutely traditional wines with a long track record for aging. Today, all three are on vivid display. Sadly, Patrick passed away last year, but his son Benoît has taken the helm after working alongside his father for years. Pousse d’Or has had many moments of greatness in its nearly one thousand year history, but they may be making their best wines ever right now.
Volnay, and the Côte de Beaune in general, has always been the home of Pousse d’Or, but in the mid 2000s Patrick decided it would be prudent to add additional vineyards and terroir to their esteemed portfolio. That search culminated in the acquisition of some prized parcels from the now defunct domaine of Moine-Hudelot, including old vines in the heart of Chambolle-Musigny. The vineyards were converted to biodynamic farming in accordance with the rest of Pousse d’Or’s holdings, and they have been crafting a soaring, sophisticated interpretation of this world class terroir ever since.
The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny was sourced from 30 to 60 year old vines, and the pristine fruit was entirely destemmed before it was fermented with native yeasts in steel tanks. It was then racked into French oak barriques, about 20% new, and aged for 18 months before being bottled without fining or filtration. Serve at cellar temperature, around 60 degrees, in a nice Burgundy stem and those heady, intoxicating aromas that Chambolle is famous for will hit you almost immediately: ripe red cherries, raspberry coulis, dried rose petals, truffle, pink peppercorn, baking spice, thyme, and damp, wet earth. Wine matures a little faster in half bottles, and as such this 2017 is already showing a bit of extra savor and tertiary flavors, but I am sure that it will be in a prime drinking window for another five years or more. It’s a perfect wine to have on hand for an elaborate weekend lunch, or a simple dinner of crisp chicken and mushrooms, so stock up now before they’re gone.
