There’s a good reason why we return to the well of Chablis time and again: It is the reigning champion of consistency in producing finely etched, impeccably balanced, world-class white wine values. And just when we think we know all the best producers and hidden gems, a new success story comes from seemingly nowhere and blows us all away. That’s the story with Domaine Bardet, which, in Chablis terms, is still in its infancy. And yet Damien Bardet is confidently making ultra-traditional wines, with a pronounced lemon/lime crunch and enough oyster shell minerality to make classicists like us swoon. This tiny estate, tucked away in a long forgotten corner of Chablis, makes two important ideas abundantly clear: First, there is always more to discover in this region; Second, there is no better source for exquisite, energetic, unoaked Chardonnay on the planet. Time to stock up!
The tiny, sleepy hamlet of Noyers-sur-Serein is just 20 minutes down the road from Chablis proper, but these days you would be hard-pressed to find much evidence of a world-famous wine region here. Phyloxxera ravaged the vineyards over a century ago, and while the wider region replanted and recovered relatively quickly, this little village never did. The Bardet family farm is just outside the town, and they have been growing cereal grains like wheat and barley for generations. But, in 1992, brothers Philippe and Michael Bardet decided to diversify the business, and so they planted vines on an undeveloped parcel of land in nearby Préhy, which happens to include both AOC Petit Chablis and AOC Chablis plots. Today it is Philippe’s son, Damien, and his cousin, Alexandre, at the helm.
Préhy is the only village in Chablis that also has vineyards designated as simple “Bourgogne Blanc,” and it is also a center for production of the sparkling workhorse Crémant de Bourgogne. It is these two appellations that provide the backbone of Domaine Bardet’s production, but the family’s crown jewel is about two hectares of proper AOC Chablis. From this vineyard, which sits on a bed of pure, Kimmeridgian limestone, the Bardet cousins produce an über-classic, precise wine that exudes both class and vibrancy. At about 30 years old, this winery is still an infant in Chablis terms, and yet the wine feels like a throwback with centuries of knowledge behind it.
Damien and Alexandre use only steel tanks for their Chablis, in order to emphasize the pure, sea-shell laden limestone soils that the region is famous for. After primary fermentation the wine generally undergoes malolactic fermentation as well, adding a touch of texture and richness to the otherwise super linear, precise frame. It is then aged on the fine lees in tank for an additional 9-12 months before bottling. Serve cool, at around 45-50 degrees, in a Burgundy stem and you’ll immediately notice the bright, yellow green hue. Aromas of lemon-lime zest, barely ripe apples, citrus blossom, raw almond, and telltale oyster shells abound and are mirrored by flavors of crunchy orchard fruit, citrus, fleur de sel, and crushed stone minerality. Serve with simply prepared fish or shellfish, or branch out with some Thai or Vietnamese inspired seafood, and you’ll feel refreshed and rejuvenated, even in the heart of winter!
