Much as we think we’ve got our fingers on the pulse, we’re nevertheless guilty of the occasional oversight. Case in point: This is the first Pinot Noir we’ve ever offered from Willamette Valley legend Patricia Green. We don’t know how this could be, exactly, but let’s not dwell on that—all that matters is that we’ve got a great one for you today. This is as “benchmark” as wine gets, regardless of region, and when you taste it, you’re reminded in no uncertain terms why Willamette Valley Pinot Noir has catapulted into the world’s top rank. This is a soulful, layered, soil-expressive Pinot Noir—one that even the most prideful Burgundian would be proud to call his/her own—and it is priced well below what it could (and would) command if the label were French rather than Oregonian. It’s best-in-class stuff—our only regret is not getting you some sooner. Don’t miss out!
Located in the Ribbon Ridge sub-ava of the Willamette Valley, Patricia Green Cellars was founded by namesake “Patty” Green and Jim Anderson, who purchased their 52-acre estate in 2000. Patty, who died suddenly in 2017 at just 62 years of age, was known as a tireless tender of her vines and a champion of sustainable viticulture—whether her fruit sources were her own, in Ribbon Ridge, or from contract growers elsewhere in the Willamette (the winery has long been known for its rather wide range of vineyard-designate Pinot Noirs from far-flung sources).
Anderson has continued to produce the estate’s wines in the most natural and thoughtful manner possible, with this “Estate” bottling being perhaps the most idealized expression of their vision: The source vineyard for this site is dry-farmed (i.e. not irrigated), containing vines planted between 1984 and 2000. For this bottling, they incorporate between 50% and 100% whole grape clusters during fermentation (depending on the vintage), and age the wine in mostly used barrels, to let the fruit and soil character shine through. Here’s how Anderson describes it:
“The difference between the older and younger blocks here is always pretty amazing to people. As the vines continue to age, these older vines continue to sink deep root systems into the soft sandstone sub-soil. Our water is spring-fed and very minerally in nature. That is what these older vines have tapped into and that is what they pull up and put into the fruit.”
This ’22 is, obviously, still “young,” but its class is evident from the first sip: The use of whole grape clusters is readily evident in the texture, which displays the kind of grip usually only found in high-end French Burgundies. But of course, the joy of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is that the loamy, sandy soil character is complemented by plenty of exuberant (but not over-ripe) American fruit. It’s packed with ripe black cherry, black raspberry, spiced Damson plum jam, and wild strawberries that soar out of a glass alongside candied violets, dewy rose, baking spice, forest floor, and wet rock. In the short term, give it a splash decant and serve it at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems, but don’t hesitate to lay down a few bottles for the longer term. This wine is just getting started—a fitting tribute to one of the visionary greats of Willamette Valley wine. Raise a toast to Patty Green and enjoy!
