Today’s wine is for those who like to be on the cutting edge. It’s for those who value hands-on artisanship and adventurous drinking—which should not be confused with drinking something weird for weird’s sake, which happens a lot these days. What we have here is a glistening Galician white wine from a grape which, while it may be growing in recognition, still qualifies as an “also-ran” in the Albariño-driven precincts of Northwest Spain. But, just as Albariño has graduated into ranks of the world’s elite, this very serious Godello proves that Galicia has at least one other native variety to be reckoned with. It displayed the most structure, depth, and complexity of any Godello any of us has ever tasted, which is at least partly explained by the tiny scale of its production (about 400 cases total). It’s the passion project of two female winemakers intent on celebrating women in wine, and this 2022 is indeed cause for celebration—if you pride yourself on your white wine acumen, this exceptionally rare gem should be of urgent interest.
“Anónimas Viticultoras” was created by Cris Yagüe Cuevas and Maria Falcón, two Galician wine pros whose mission is “a tribute to the anonymous women that should have had their place in history and were never recognized.” Based in Cambados, in the heart of the Rías Baixas, they collaborate with many female grape-growers, viticulturists, and enologists to source fruit and craft the wines in their concise, focused lineup. Both Cris and Maria have deep family roots in the local wine industry, so their access to superior raw material is their ace in the hole.
In addition to Albariño (and Mencía) from their home base in Rías Baixas, they get their hands on some pristine old-vine (20-60 years) Godello from the nearby Valdeorras DO for their “Catro e Cadela” bottling. Valdeorras, just east of Ribeira Sacra, hugs the north bank of the Sil River, with vineyards at some of the steepest, seemingly impassable pitches you’ll ever see. Translating roughly as “valley of gold,” the region is so named for the gold mining once carried out by the Romans when they inhabited the area (these days, slate mining is more common).
Grapes for this 2022 were cold soaked in tanks after harvest, and only the “free-run” juice was fermented with ambient yeasts in stainless steel. Aging was carried out in a mixture of stainless (80%) and used French oak barrels (20%) over five months before bottling.
If you were blind-tasting this wine, Premier/Grand Cru Chablis would be a very good guess, although the aromatics here are a touch more floral. In the glass, “Catro e Cadela” is a luminous yellow-gold with flecks of silver and green, with aromas of green and yellow apple, lime blossom, white peach, white flowers, wet stones, and a touch of oyster shell/wet stone minerality. Medium-plus in body, textured, and yet mouthwateringly racy, this wine will surprise you with its depth and persistence—this isn’t some simple “salty rinse,” although it will most definitely make a great partner for all types of seafood. While Valdeorras is situated in a mountainous river valley, it still feels an Atlantic influence, and this wine will sing with the kinds of dishes you’d find in Galician seaside towns. Albariño’s great, too, but get to know Godello—it will not disappoint!
