There are three main types of soil in Sancerre: Silex (flint), caillottes (pure, pebbly limestone), and terres blanches (clay and limestone marl, similar to Burgundy). Each gives distinct nuances, though in the vast majority of cases Sancerre bottlings contain a mix of some or all of these soils. “Les Paradis,” though, sits on a bedrock of almost pure chalk, aka caillottes, with just a touch of silex and almost no clay. It is therefore drenched in saline minerality, and is perhaps the most “Sancerre-esque” of all the single vineyards. This is a wine that captures the Vacheron cousins’ essence in all its glory.
Jean-Laurent and Jean-Dominique were relatively early adopters of biodynamic viticulture, having been certified back in 2005, and their natural approach is reflected in the purity and pulsating energy of their wines. They plow their soils, fertilize with natural compost, plant cover crops between the rows of vines, and hand-harvest much smaller yields than their neighbors. The pristine grapes are gently pressed then fermented with only natural yeasts in stainless steel and open-top wooden fermenters. The wine is then aged in a combination of large foudres and smaller barrels for 12 months, after which it is bottled unfined and unfiltered according to the lunar calendar.
The 2022 Le Paradis is a shimmering gem of a Sancerre, focused and precise, with a straw-yellow core that moves to green and silver at the rim. The aromatics are as complex and concentrated as Sauvignon Blanc gets, with scents of citrus blossom, green melon, peach pit, gooseberry, honeysuckle and Key lime checked by savory notes of sea salt, wet herbs and loads of chalky minerality. The palate delivers incredible power, electrifying depth and texture, and a mineral drive that is a true testament to this treasured site’s exceptional terroir. Although this wine is stunning in its current state, it will continue to age gracefully for a good 10 years (or more). When it comes time to pop a bottle, decant it 30 minutes before serving in all-purpose white stems at 50 degrees. Go for something refined and bright for the pairing, maybe some seafood prepared en papillote with lots of aromatic herbs. This isn’t a simple bistro Sancerre, but something else—a benchmark that leaves an indelible impression. Enjoy it!
