The Alessandria family is the best-known producer of Barolo from the Capalot vineyard, which itself is best known for supplying part of Roberto Voerzio’s “Riserva Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate” bottling (which is no longer made). The vineyard’s exposures range from east to south-southeast in Alessandria’s portion, which sits in an amphitheater of clay and limestone with veins of sand. In general, La Morra’s east-leaning exposures and higher percentage of clay in its soils lead to Barolos with bright fruit and less-ferocious tannins than their counterparts in villages such as Serralunga and Monforte d’Alba. This one is true to form in that regard, and to anyone who remembers the generously oaked, densely concentrated produce of Roberto Voerzio, be advised: This is not that. This is a lifted, perfumed style Barolo that combines power and finesse in much the same way my favorite Burgundies do. It sneaks up on you and stays with you. 

In the glass, this 2011 is starting to show off its maturity, with a steady creep of earthier, more leathery notes mixing in with gorgeous aromas of wild strawberry, cranberry, black cherry, orange rind, sandalwood, wet rose petals, and a subtle hint of tobacco. Aged 24 months in large, used Slavonian oak botti, its oak component is by now a background note. It is drinking beautifully now after a 30-minute decant, but will continue to evolve for a good decade more. Serve it at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems and let it harmonize with an earthy, seasonal pasta preparation as in the attached. Pure Piedmontese perfection!