The Hick estate, currently run by Maria Hick and her husband, Manfred, is located in the village of Mitterarnsdorf, on the southern banks of the Danube near Spitz. This is toward the western end of the Wachau DAC, which feels a more profound cooling influence from the nearby Waldviertel forest district, and the soils of the area are predominantly comprised of paragneiss—a hard sedimentary rock shot through with bands of quartz, mica, and other minerals. In much the same way that these rocks glisten in the sun, the Grüner Veltliner wines that emerge from these soils have an unmistakable crystalline quality, which you'll find in Hick’s 2021 "Ried Buchenthal."

"Steinfeder" is the Austrian designation for light, fresh wines that are no more than 11.5% alcohol by volume. It's a category that is rarely seen in the U.S., but in 2021 Maria and Manfred produced such an exceptional version of this easy drinking quaffer, that their local importer had to have it. And we are glad they did! The super bright fruit has the tiniest touch of sweetness, but that disappears quickly with a burst of laser-like acidity and loads of spritz-y minerality. Classic notes of lemon-lime zest, barely ripe apples, and white pepper are kicked up a notch by a hint of hatch chili and sea brine. Serve chilled, around 45-50 degrees, in an all-purpose glass with fresh shellfish, soft cheeses, and your favorite salad. Just make sure to have an extra bottle around, this little overachiever disappears fast!