If you want to make Burgundy devotées, or Chardonnay fans, or any aficionado of world class white wine swoon, you need only whisper a single name: Meursault. The sensuous, golden hue, the rich texture, and the swirling layers of orchard fruit, spice, and saline minerals all combine to create a benchmark wine that is beloved the world over. The only problem is this small village doesn’t make nearly enough wine to meet the global demand, and so prices have soared while availability is scarce. This is doubly true for the 2021 vintage, one of the best for White Burgundy in a generation but with heartbreakingly small quantities of wine. So we were delighted to discover a tiny treasure trove of a sensational single vineyard bottling from talented winemaker Philippe Bouzereau. This is spot-on, textbook worthy Meursault in every aspect, from terrific terroir that glows even brighter thanks to the towering classicism of 2021. All of that pedigree and it is still well shy of a c-note. Did we mention it’s limited? Don’t wait!
What’s the secret sauce, the magic that makes the tiny little hamlet of Meursault a global destination for wine lovers? Like all things Burgundy it comes down to location and soil. Situated just south of Beaune, with the red wine dominant villages of Pommard and Volnay in between and the Montrachet sisters of Puligny and Chassagne to the south, Meursault has a the perfect ingredients for producing Chardonnay that is both voluptuous and precise. The vineyards face almost due east instead of southeast, which helps them soak up a bit more sunshine than the generally more chiseled and angular wines of Puligny and Chassagne. There’s also a touch more clay in the limestone bedrock, which is why Pinot Noir starts to take over on the village’s northern edge. It’s a perfect natural recipe for wines that have oodles of charm and seduction, but still maintain definition, structure, and soaring complexity.
Philippe Bouzereau is keenly aware of the special position his home town holds, as well as the long history and tradition here since his family has been farming grapes and making wine for many generations. Indeed there are a handful of Bouzereaus here, all of them cousins, but for our money Philippe is the one to watch. Along with divine terroir, Meursault is also host to some of the most exceptionally talented winemakers on the planet. Names like Coche, Roulot, and Lafon have brought skyrocketing fame and acclaim to the Côte de Beaune over the past three decades, and Philippe is a top contender in the younger generation to one day ascend to that top tier as well.
Today’s tiny production gem is also a bit of a mystery. If you look up “Clos de la Croix Noire” on a current map of Meursault vineyards you won’t find it. Why? Because the vineyard is now officially called “Aux Murger de Monthélie,” which makes sense as it sits above the town right at the border with the Monthélie appellation. But the importers decided having “Monthélie” on the label could be confusing, so they received permission to use the old name instead, which nods to a tall black cross at the corner of the vineyard that has been there for ages.
Sitting at near the top of the escarpment, the “Croix Noire” has a bit more freshness and verve, especially in an über classic vintage like 2021. But make no mistake that this is still soulful, sensual Meursault at its finest. Served at a cool 50-55 degrees in a nice Burgundy bowl it glows a brilliant straw gold and after a bit of air the classic aromas of yellow apple, marzipan, lemon curd, citrus blossom, honeysuckle, Key lime, baking spice, and a touch of fennel all emerge. The textbook texture is soft and mouth coating, but of course the long, mineral, sea salt finish is framed by bright, prickly acidity. It’s a deliciously comforting bottle that will provide enjoyment tonight or five years from now, and every point in between. So grab as much as you can, it is sure to disappear fast.
