Now quickly approaching its tricentennial, Château Verdignan boasts the richest history in Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne. This small village is located less than a mile from the Gironde estuary, just north of Saint-Estèphe (though they are confusingly still within the administrative canton of Pauillac). Though Verdignan was in the hands of the church for much of its history, the château has been overseen by the Miailhe family for the last 40-odd years. Again, with so much history, the estate has accumulated an astounding amount of vines over the centuries—over 150 acres—but sustainable practices have remained in place, vines are averaging 40 years of age, and yields have remained impressively low. Making sure to harness the superb ripeness of 2005, Boissenot blended 65% Cabernet Sauvignon with 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Fermentation occurred in stainless steel vats, followed by 12 months of aging in tightly-grained French barriques, approximately 30% new. 

Verdignan’s 2005 Cru Bourgeois Supérieur reveals an opaque garnet core leading to a ruby rim—it’s dark and brooding, hardly showing its 13 years of age. When I tasted it blind, I was thinking 2009/10 Pauillac—both of which are also highly touted, powerhouse vintages. Right out of the bottle, it was compact and brawny (that’s ‘05 for you) and it was begging for a decant. So we revisited about 45 minutes later and it was exploding with rich black currant, black plums, red and black licorice, star anise, black raspberries, forest floor, cedar, cigar wrapper, tobacco, fresh herbs, damp gravel, and layers of integrated baking spices. It’s a grippy, masculine Bordeaux that feels like a heavy-hitting Pauillac without being overly extracted. Thick tears hug the glass as you swirl the wine and that viscosity is certainly present on the luxurious yet finesse-driven palate. It’s a distinguished 2005 that promotes its ripe fruit while highlighting the classics of Left Bank Bordeaux: crushed rock minerality, turned earth, herbs, and spices. If consumed around 60-65 degrees after decanting, this will provide enduring pleasure as it coats your mouth with polished, dark-fruited savor that effortlessly glides across your palate. This is drinking at a peak level today and should remain there for the next 3-5 years, although there’s no harm in letting further secondaries kick in around its 20th birthday. Regardless, be sure to drink several within the next year next to the attached butterflied leg of lamb recipe. Cheers!