Fattoi, Rosso di Montalcino Tuscany, Italy 2017 (750mL)

This is a long-established, family-run estate right down the road from two of the most revered wineries in Montalcino—Soldera’s Case Basse and Gaja’s Pieve di Santa Restituta—but its much-lower profile means much-lower prices for wines that are consistently spot-on and resolutely traditional in style. The Fattoi Rosso di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese that spends far less time aging in oak relative to its Brunello siblings, and what I love about it is the unvarnished view of Sangiovese it provides. The 2017 is a study in purity but also one of those Rossos with what we call an “extra gear”—i.e., enough depth and power that it could be mistaken for a Brunello, until you see the price tag.

In the glass, it’s a deep garnet-red moving to pink and a hint of orange at the rim, with aromas that highlight the savory, deep-woods personality of Sangiovese: powerful aromas of black and red cherry fruit, blood orange peel, and wild strawberry are tangled up with licorice, leather, bay leaf, coffee grounds, herbs, and lots of underbrush. It is medium-plus in body, with a firm tannic structure and a terrific amount of freshness keeping it nimble rather than heavy-feeling. The wine is in its sweet spot right now, so no need to delay.