From the Wine Shop
Villa di Corlo, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, “Rolfshark” Emilia-Romagna, Italy 2019 (750mL)
This is the ultimate Italian table wine, although it does carry an “official” designation: the Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC (Denomination of Controlled Origin). There are numerous sub-varieties, or biotypes, of the Lambrusco grape grown throughout Emilia-Romagna, one of which is Lambrusco Grasparossa, which is mainly grown in 13 communes south of the city of Modena (including the village of Castelvetro di Modena, for which the DOC is named). This area marks a point at which Emilia-Romagna’s broad, flat Pò River plain transitions to pre-Apennine foothills, giving the Villa di Corlo vineyards a little rise to them—up to 300 meters’ elevation in some places, with a little limestone creeping into the rich clay soils. Proprietor Antonia Munari has been on the leading edge of sustainability in a region long associated with industrial-scale production: The winery facility is solar-powered and carbon-neutral, while the 25 hectares of vineyards are farmed organically.
This is a classic frizzante (semi-sparkling), meaning the atmospheric pressure is much lower than that of a Champagne, and over time the sparkle dissipates to the point where it is barely perceptible. The aromas and flavors are driven by a powerful blast of dark fruit—muddled blackberry, blueberry, pomegranate—balanced by a distinct iron-like minerality and black pepper spice typical of Lambrusco wines. While many such wines go overboard on the fruity at the expense of the savory, this one finds the perfect balance, and while it deep color might suggest something fuller and richer, the key takeaway here is invigorating freshness and a kind of weightlessness.
- SoilClay & Silt
- BlendLambrusco Grasparossa
- Temp.Serve at 50° F
- GlasswareAll-Purpose Stems
- PairingLasagna Bolognese
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Through the grapevine
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