Scarbolo, “Il Ramato” Pinot Grigio Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy 2019 (750mL)

Valter Scarbolo takes Pinot Grigio very seriously. This bottling is a modern interpretation of a classic style of Pinot Grigio from Scarbolo’s home region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia—the ramato, or “coppery,” style, which is what Pinot Grigio used to be in the pre-technology era. Whether you call it Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio, this variety is effectively a “red” grape when ripe, so named for the grey/purple hue of its skins. As with most other dark-skinned varieties, its juice is clear, so it’s possible to vinify it as a “white” wine so long as you avoid skin contact (just like with Pinot Noir in Champagne). What Scarbolo does with Il Ramato is let Pinot Grigio live its best life: Macerated briefly on its skins at the start of its fermentation, Il Ramato could correctly be characterized as a vin gris, one that showcases the rich, layered texture the variety is capable of when farmed with care. It is neither as tutti-frutti as most rosés, nor is it oxidative and funky like many “orange” wines. It’s just seriously good wine that will forever change your perceptions of this star-crossed variety. Aromas of red apple, blood orange peel, wild berries, cantaloupe, cinnamon, clove, and Kombucha tea carry over to the generous, juicy palate, which rides a wave of bright acidity through a fresh and floral finish. It’s got good weight but also good “cut” (including a little touch of tea-like tannin) for pairing with richer seafood preparations, cured meats (it’d be great with prosciutto), or roast chicken.