Among Chilean reds, most of us think first of Cabernet Sauvignon, which dominates vineyard plantings. But everyone likes an underdog story, and in Chile that story is the revival of the País grape (known as Mission in North America). País means “country” and winemakers are embracing it as Chile’s true heirloom variety.

Pedro Parra is a geologist who has consulted to wineries all over the world. His namesake project is a revival of winemaking traditions that pre-dated the Bordeaux-ization of Chile. He seeks out local País growers and pays them a fair rate for their produce, aiming to revive the fortunes of the variety and celebrate an under-appreciated part of Chilean wine culture.

The Itata Valley, near Parra’s hometown of Concepción, is one of Chile’s most southerly wine zones. This is a very isolated area and hasn’t been explored by Chile’s wine giants. Soils are decomposed granite and most vineyards are old plantings of País and Cinsault, some of them a century old. The climate is cool, with a coastal influence. This wine is sourced from ancient bush vines and produced in a natural, transparent style: whole clusters are included during fermentation, with no oak used for aging. It is a fresh, vibrant red, a mash-up of Rhône Grenache, Cru Beaujolais, and Oregon Pinot Noir. Translucent garnet, with aromas/flavors of red flowers, wild strawberry, dusty earth, and fresh herbs.