For me, the arrival of the new vintage of Domaine de Terrebrune Rosé is a mark-the-calendar type of event. But in our zeal to pounce on—and eagerly consume—the most recent release, we overlook something important about a Bandol Rosé of this elite quality: that it does indeed get better with time.
I’m not saying age it for a decade, I’m saying that time in bottle has only enhanced the nuance and glamor of this 2018, without sacrificing one iota of freshness. I’ve long described Terrebrune as my “desert island” rosé precisely for this reason: There’s more depth and complexity here than a rosé is meant to have, and as a result, it’s one of those rare rosés that improves with age. Not surprisingly, Terrebrune does everything well, with this wine a delicious bridge between the domaine’s luscious, sea-kissed whites and its perfumed, Mourvèdre-driven reds. It leaves no doubt that rosé can be serious wine, and with the inevitable flood of just-bottled 2019s not yet begun in earnest, it’s the perfect time to grab some of this legendary bottle and see what I mean—we managed enough of an allocation to offer up to a case per customer today, just in time to take “rosé season” to a new level!
Terrebrune is my first choice in a region, Bandol, that has more than its share of big-name rosés. Situated in a natural south-facing amphitheater near the Mediterranean Sea, the Bandol AOC’s vineyards are rooted in pebbly clays over a solid bedrock of limestone, a soil composition that lends the wines a firm acid/mineral backbone. These soils, combined with the intense Mediterranean sun, have proved ideal for the late-ripening Mourvèdre grape, the signature variety of the appellation’s red wines—and thus, a driving force in the rosés as well. Terrebrune’s rosé is comprised of 50% Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache, and 25% Cinsault, and the wine is a blend of 50% ‘direct-press’ rosé (i.e. fruit is destemmed, gently pressed, and the skins immediately removed) and 50% saignée-method rosé (i.e. wine ‘bled off’ during the early stages of a red-wine fermentation). The wine then spends about 6-8 months in used French oak barrels, an unusual move for rosé that contributes to its uncommon depth and complexity.
The organically farmed Terrebrune Estate is in the village of Ollioules, just east of the town of Bandol, and a few miles from the cool breezes of the Mediterranean Sea. The property was purchased by French Sommelier, George Delille, in 1963. After many years of hard work perfecting the property, he released his first wine in 1980 with the help of his son, Reynald, who is now in charge of operations. Today, the Terrebrune vineyards are farmed organically, with absolutely no chemical herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers.
When I visited the property in 2012, a fellow sommelier and I were graciously welcomed by Reynald and treated to one of the best lunches of our lives. The amazing Provençal cuisine was paired with the wines of Terrebrune. We were lucky enough to have Reynald open several old bottles when we were deep in the cellar, and my mind was blown—among the wines tasted was an amazingly fresh, aromatically explosive rosé from 1991, truly one of the greatest wine memories of my life. The domaine also has one of the best restaurants in the area, which is perched high above the winery. So, if you are ever in the south of France, you must seize the opportunity to enjoy an afternoon there.
The 2018 is, as always, a light salmon-pink color, with aromas of strawberry, blood orange peel, watermelon, red currant, lavender, rose petals, fresh herbs, and dusty earth. One of the wine’s distinguishing characteristics is its dense, creamy texture—not flabby or sweet but concentrated and focused, with flavors of melon and peach adding to the sensations carried over from the nose. The finish is long and fragrant, and you will immediately see what I mean when I say that this wine can age: there’s a structure here that is reminiscent of young white Burgundy, and I wouldn’t hesitate to lay a few bottles of this down. At the same time, I’ll be breaking into my stash sooner rather than later: Serve this at 45-50 degrees in any glass you choose, preferably with people you love and a beautiful piece of grilled tuna or swordfish topped with some blistered cherry tomatoes and herbs. This wine deserves a showcase. Enjoy!
