Having just discovered Bolsignano months ago, I’ve quickly learned that these elegant, mind-blowingly impressive reds—be it Brunello, Rosso di Montalcino, or Rosso Toscana—aren’t just hard to come by, they’re more-or-less impossible to acquire. Case in point: SommSelect is the only US online retailer offering today’s thrilling 2017 Rosso di Montalcino. What’s more, Bolsignano has earned reliable praise from the likes of the Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, and dedicated Brunello expert James Suckling. I suspect the gushing reviews and frustrating scarcity of these wines are all the result from the same origin: organic hand-farming of an ancient and microscopic single vineyard.
Of course, there are numerous other “boutique” and “artisan” Brunello di Montalcino producers, but Bolsignano is the rare property that is truly a one-man show. And as if today’s offer isn’t already compelling enough, here’s one last hook: When the SommSelect team tasted through Bolsigano’s line-up, we unanimously agreed that today’s 2017 Rosso di Montalcino offered near-term approachability and long-term cellar potential that is in every way equivalent to the estate’s Brunello. So, despite the modest $29 asking price and the Rosso-versus-Brunello designation, there is zero sacrifice here—just a breathtakingly delicious bottle!
It often seems as if a majority of producers in Montalcino have agreed on one single “recipe”—a dark, high alcohol, heavily oaked red that is guaranteed to deliver consistent international sales, but that lacks much in the way of discernable terroir or compelling personality. Of course, a similar insult could be leveled at many of the world’s top wine regions, but the problem feels particularly exaggerated in Montalcino, and that’s one reason SommSelect offers relatively few Brunello di Montalcino wines each year. But, it’s also the reason today’s Rosso di Montalcino from Roberto Rubegni comes as such a revelation.
You can taste the Rubegni family’s dark and fertile soil, philosophical purity, and elegantly minimalistic approach in every ounce of Bolsignano. Worlds away from the engineered, magenta sheen of “modern” Brunello, these are complex, classically styled reds for obsessive terroir geeks and passionate lovers of traditional European reds. The process begins in a small vineyard that doubles as the Rubegni family’s backyard. Roberto is a passionate student and expert in organic viticulture and it’s no exaggeration to say that this is one of the most painstakingly farmed vineyards in the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. There is no glitzy tasting room or charismatic host, but the land is teeming with butterflies, bees, hummingbirds, and rabbits, it is an oasis of biological activity and harmony. It’s worth emphasizing that the small vineyard is not a “passion project” which Roberto delegates to paid employees. On the contrary, Roberto spends most days in denim coveralls, tending the vines, personally monitoring the progress of each wine, and doing everything possible to ensure that his small farm remains a hospitable home for flora, fauna, and thoroughly impressive Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino.
After cascading from the decanter into the glass, Bolsignano’s 2017 Rosso di Montalcino caresses with dark cherry and blackberry aromas, but it is not a “fruit forward” wine. Rather, this a deeply savory and mineral wine that defies simple tasting note definitions. There is a distinct, vivid sense of rustic stoniness, sun-kissed hillside herbs and dried wildflowers here that places it in a truly elite tier of Tuscan wines. This bottle is as much about harmony, tightrope balance and restraint as it is about strutting its own muscularity. As sommeliers, we often dedicate disproportionate attention to the great reds of France, but a Sangiovese of this caliber proves that top-tier Tuscan reds are every bit as complex, dynamic and evocative as any great Burgundy or Rhône red.
Decant it for one hour and enjoy at 55-60 degrees in large Burgundy stems today, and I should mention that this wine is an absolute heartbreaker alongside grilled lamb chops on a bed of wilted arugula. Also, I’d urge you to follow my lead in hiding an armful of bottles in your cellar for the next 5-10 years. In my experience, Rosso (versus Brunello) di Montalicino from a top producer is often even better suited for extended cellar aging. The slightly higher acidity and fresher profile frequently results in a wine that will sing in years to come. Bolsignano’s 2017 Rosso di Montalcino is a captivating beauty today, but I’m certain it will raise the bar even higher after a few years in your cellar release the truffle, floral and fine leather aromas that make aged Tuscan reds one of life’s most hedonistic pleasures! Cheers.
