Frédéric and Claudia Martin are a dynamic brother/sister duo that are shaking up the old guard of Chablis and making boundary-breaking wines that also happen to be outrageously tasty. The siblings inherited the family estate in 2018, and with some guidance from their father (himself a bit of a Chablis-disruptor) they are combining excellent terroir with a willingness to innovate and experiment whenever it seems beneficial. Of course they have a deep respect for the traditions of this ancient wine region, and it is their quest to balance the traditions that work with a fresh-eyed approach that allows them to craft the soaring bottle of Premier Cru “Montmains” that we have for you to discover today. Combining the richness, power, and depth that the world’s best Chardonnay can achieve with the tell-tale oyster shell minerality and laser like acidity of Chablis, this is a bottle of pure white wine pleasure. It’s also very limited; you know what to do!
Astute readers will know that terroir, and all of its intricacies, is a key focus for the wine team here at SommSelect. But as important as it is, terroir is not the only factor in determining great wine. Case in point: We offered lovely Chablis from the Premier Cru “Montmains” last month, and today we have wine from that exact same vineyard (a.k.a. terroir) that is nonetheless markedly different. Why? Vintage and winemaking philosophy. 2022 was a warm, dry vintage that produced ripe grapes in abundance. But unlike 2019 or 2020, the higher yields and the vines' growing familiarity with heat made for a much better balance of sugar and acidity. In the cellar, the Martin siblings chose to age half of the wine in barrels, adding additional layers of depth, spice, and complexity. Compared to the lean and racy 2021 from a month ago, this is a wine where breadth and texture lead the way, though the structure and minerality that makes Chablis distinct are always present on the finish.
This sort of balance, between power and finesse, is exactly what Claudia and Frédéric Martin are seeking to achieve. Frédéric spends most of his time in the vineyards, where he has adopted his father’s innovative philosophy of farming, and pushed it even further. “Organic” isn’t quite the right word for the approach he takes, but it is wholly attuned to nature. Pesticides, herbicides, and chemicals generally are eschewed in favor of what the Martins describe as “agricultural homeopathy,” which includes everything from allowing beneficial crop cover between the vines to experimenting with milk sprays, (yup, plain old cow’s milk) to combat mildew. In everything the goal is natural harmony, and fruit that is pristine and perfectly balanced.
In the cellar Frédéric’s sister Claudia takes that fruit and transforms it into exceptional wine. Inspired by her neighbors to the south, in the Côte de Beaune, as well as the warming temperatures that she has grown up with, Claudia is one of the very few Chablisienne winemakers that not only ages, but also ferments some of her juice in oak barrels. She is also experimenting with cleaning the barrels using grape must instead of water, and generally looking to produce wine that reflects both the terroir and the climate of her vines.
The 2022 “Montmains” pours a gleaming straw gold, with slight hints of green at the rim. It is very youthful and energetic, yet already displays a sense of depth and richness of texture that are harbingers of future profundity, given a couple more years of bottle age. But if you serve it sooner, and you certainly can, decant for about 30 minutes before pouring into large Burgundy bowls. A subtly complex nose of yellow apples, nectarine, lemon peel, white flowers, toasted hazelnuts, honeysuckle, wet rock, and a hint of crème fraîche is framed by a deep, medium-plus body and a succulent texture that finishes with clean, salty minerals and tingly acidity. Serve alongside richer seafood dishes—crab, lobster, swordfish, etc. and you’ll have a truly impressive dining experience to share with friends and family.
