Altos Las Hormigas, Malbec, “Terroir Valle de Uco”
Mendoza, Argentina 2015 (750mL)
Regular price$20.00
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Altos Las Hormigas, Malbec, “Terroir Valle de Uco”
When I say cru Beaujolais is the greatest “Old World” red value, Argentine Malbec must be considered one of, if not the best, value among “New World” wines. With the lofty and rugged Andean Mountains serving as the backbone for high-altitude vineyards, the dry zonda wind that whips the vines into shape, and terroirs that are built for the hardy Malbec grape, Argentina has everything you could want in a value-driven red.
Malbec, however, is sometimes caught between a rock and a hard place. From its origins in Cahors, France, underperforming wines can smell like a dirtball full of tart and savory funk, while the ones from Mendoza can be heavy-handed, jammy, and hot, as producers look to satisfy the “sweet” American palate. This offering is another Malbec altogether, a harmonious example of what happens when you study the lay of the land and bring together brilliant winemaking minds who champion minimal intervention. At this price, the 2015 “Terroir Valle de Uco” is a must-try—not only is it aromatic and delicious, it’s a case study in the varietal character of Malbec.
Malbec, however, is sometimes caught between a rock and a hard place. From its origins in Cahors, France, underperforming wines can smell like a dirtball full of tart and savory funk, while the ones from Mendoza can be heavy-handed, jammy, and hot, as producers look to satisfy the “sweet” American palate. This offering is another Malbec altogether, a harmonious example of what happens when you study the lay of the land and bring together brilliant winemaking minds who champion minimal intervention. At this price, the 2015 “Terroir Valle de Uco” is a must-try—not only is it aromatic and delicious, it’s a case study in the varietal character of Malbec.
Altos Las Hormigas is an Argentine wine venture with a strong Italian imprint: it was founded by two Tuscans, Antonio Morescalchi and Alberto Antonini, the latter previously a senior winemaker for both the Antinori and Frescobaldi wine houses in Italy. They brought in another accomplished Italian winemaker, Attilio Pagli—whose consulting projects stretch far and wide—as well as a dynamic Chilean PhD named Pedro Parra, himself a French-trained ‘terroir consultant’ for properties all over the world. These masterminds have all come together to produce wines that rely on terroir (they’ve dug over 1,500 soil pits to research the best locations) and they maintain that the “main creative force behind the wine is its place of origin, not the winemaker.” This philosophy has been the impetus for Altos las Hormigas since it was established in 1995 and it has only continued to blossom.
Mendoza may be the heart of Argentine Malbec, but Uco Valley—a short drive to the southeast—is the true soul. Elevations here are much higher, between 3,000-4,500 feet, and temperature swings between night and day (diurnal shifts) fluctuate widely. You can also expect the sun to shine 250 days (and growing) per year, but runoff water from the snow-capped peaks of the Andes help keep the vines hydrated. Uco Valley truly is one of the great regions of the world and this bottling all comes from within it. Much of the soil here is rocky and alluvial with coveted limestone that is said to help Malbec reach its full potential.
As far as the vintage goes, 2015 brought severe frosts, more rain than usual, and extreme heatwaves, all of which led to massively reduced yields. The team, however, did not fret. They instead saw this as an opportunity to conduct an even stricter grape selection process, making sure only the finest would be chosen all while staying true to their biodynamic principles. In the winery, there was minimal extraction and natural yeasts initiated fermentation. Aging took place in numerous vessels: 50% in cement eggs, 25% stainless steel and 25% neutral oak foudres (all new oak was abandoned in 2012). After a brief rest, the wine was bottled with minimal sulfites.
In the glass, the Terroir Valle de Uco displays a dark crimson core bordering on purple. As you move out to the rim the wine is highlighted by bright roseate reflections. The nose showcases black plum, black raspberry, fig, and hints of blueberry, but fruit is not the dominant component here. Soft flowers, savory mushroom, exotic spices, dried violet, damp forest, leather, crushed stone, and white pepper proudly reveal themselves at the forefront. The palate confirms this isn’t an inked-up, juicy fruit bomb, thanks to the high-altitude provenance and early harvesting (for starters). Although nearing full-bodied, it has a wonderful level of acidity that tames the delicate black and blue fruits and expresses earthy components that many Argentine Malbecs fail to. This wine is an immense pleasure to consume now, but will keep will over the next few years. Pop and pour after a quick 15-minute decant and drink around 60-65 degrees in Bordeaux stems. For pairing, choose a tender cut of beef and follow this recipe to create an authentic Argentine pairing.
