Chakana, Paraje Altamira, “Ayni”
Mendoza, Argentina 2015 (750mL)
Regular price$26.00
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Chakana, Paraje Altamira, “Ayni”
Today’s wine really spoke to me. And this is what it said: Winds of change are blowing in South America. Whereas Argentine Malbec has always been a reliable choice for those who crave dark, rich, and polished red wines, some would argue that the category is plagued by “sameness”—that the wines are undoubtedly well-made, but stylized past the point of expressing their place of origin. That’s why today’s Malbec from Chakana, called “Ayni,” was such a revelation: It felt like a wine of place, and for those who’ve seen Mendoza firsthand, what an incredible place that is!
What Chakana has done with this brilliant (and widely acclaimed) 2015 is direct the conversation toward where the wine comes from and not who made it. As many of you are aware, there’s lots of big-name winemaking talent (especially from Bordeaux) in the broader Mendoza region, but the big name on this label is “Paraje Altamira,” a famous high-elevation locale in the Uco Valley that has historically produced the most celebrated wines in Argentina. Our whole team was mesmerized by “Ayni”: It really feels like a ‘new-paradigm’ type of wine in the way it communicates both soil and Malbec character. Taste it once to understand where we’re coming from and we can all but guarantee you’ll bum-rush your remaining bottles. At this price and quality (we were given a sensational deal), this is among the very best bottles of Malbec you can find anywhere on earth. Don’t miss it!
Chakana’s founder, Juan Pelizzatti, is of Italian descent, his ancestors having crafted wine from the Alpine vineyards of Valtellina, up against Italy’s border with Switzerland. And, as luck would have it, he found another Italian to help build his project—Alberto Antonini, a renowned wine consultant who was a key component in the booming Super Tuscan movement (e.g. Antinori, Frescobaldi) in the latter part of the 20th century. Though Alberto already had a great gig, he had a strong connection to Malbec and found his answer in Argentina alongside Juan. Chakana has only been in operation for 17 years, but their mission statement imbues a strong sense of awareness that is typically only seen with wineries steeped in centuries of history: “To create true wines which can honor the wisdom of the ancient ancestors of their land.”
Mendoza may be the heart of Argentine Malbec, but Uco Valley—a short drive to the southeast—is the true soul. Elevations here are much higher and temperature swings between night and day (diurnal shifts) fluctuate widely. You can also expect the sun to shine 250 days (and growing) per year, but runoff water from the snow-capped peaks of the Andes help keep the vines hydrated. Today’s bottle, however, is sourced from a very specific terroir: “Ayni” comes from “Paraje Altamira” (paraje means “place”), which is named for both a town and viticultural subzone at the southern end of the Uco Valley. Elevations here surpass 3500 feet, which means it would rank among the highest-elevation sites in Europe. Chakana farms their portion organically and every grape is sorted and harvested by hand. Fermentation is triggered via natural, airborne yeasts and 12+ months of aging occurs in barriques and 5000-liter foudres. It is bottled unfiltered.
Chakana’s 2015 “Ayni” exhibits a dense purple-black core that moves out to a signature strip of vivid magenta on the rim. There’s no lack of concentration or aromatics in this wine, as you can quickly discover by watching this viscous wine swirl in your glass or placing your nose anywhere near its vicinity. Intense perfumes of cherry liqueur, black raspberry, and ripe plums rush forward, quickly followed by leather, leather, cloves, mountain herbs, and a hint of licorice. Although this mixture of aromas is nothing short of intoxicating, it’s the palate that really impresses—simultaneously rich and refreshing, it finishes with remarkable piquancy and lift. For being nearly full-bodied, you’ll think trickery is at play when met with its splendid levels of acidity. Add in bushels of brambly fruits and soft-shouldered, plush tannins leads to a savory, mouthwatering finish. With the structure at play here, we expect this to last over the next decade, but with a 30 minute decant it sings loud and clear today. Serve in large Bordeaux stems around 65 degrees and place it next to a simple skirt steak preparation with a slight citrus twist. Enjoy!
