he first vintage, and a great one, of a new wine from a heritage Barbaresco estate.

Few wines, Italian or otherwise, fulfill the SommSelect mission like Ronchi Barbaresco: Ronchi is an heirloom family property in one of the world’s most prestigious appellations, producing soulful, sustainably farmed wines that summon a bygone era. And yet, despite the quality and consistency of its wines, Ronchi has kept its prices well below what a producer of this level could (and should) command. Here, they’ve really outdone themselves: This is a brand-new bottling from Ronchi, adorned with a red label, which is sourced from vineyards in Neive, including the “Gaia Principe” MGA. Owned by a close friend of Ronchi winemaker Giancarlo Rocca, the parcel of Gaia Principe that supplies this wine measures only about one hectare, and, as of 2019, Giancarlo manages the farming; he plans to add the “Gaia Principe” designation starting with the 2020 vintage. 

This perfumed 2019 is a luminous garnet-red with crimson and pink reflections, with textbook Barbaresco aromas of black cherry, red currant, rose petal, licorice, sandalwood, leather, and underbrush. It is medium-plus in body, with ripe but firm tannins that frame the fruit and lend that inimitable Barbaresco backbone. The wine displays beautiful finesse but also serious persistence, and it is crying out for a pairing with a nice osso buco or truffle risotto.