Cantalupo is the reference-point producer in the tiny Ghemme appellation in Northern Piedmont and this stellar 2013 is a transporting expression of the Nebbiolo grape.
The Ghemme zone occupies a gently sloping ridge following the contours of the Sesia River, a tributary of the Pò that originates in the Alps along the Swiss border. Soils are glacial moraine, strewn with mineral-laden porphyry rock. The Arlunno family farmed vineyards in the area for generations before the foundation of Cantalupo in 1977; since 1981 Alberto Arlunno has helmed the family property, growing its vineyard holdings to 35 hectares.
And while the Ghemme DOCG discipline allows for up to 15% of local varieties such as Vespolina and Uva Rara to be blended with Nebbiolo, Cantalupo’s “Anno Primo” is 100% Nebbiolo aged 24 months in 1,500- and 3,000-liter Slavonian oak vats. That’s effectively the same regimen as Barolo, and it shows: In the glass, it is a trademark Nebbiolo garnet with brick orange at the rim. Aromas of dried black cherry, black currant, dried orange peel, leather, cracked black pepper, and crushed rocks unfold slowly as the wine takes on air. This is a heady wine, like a hibernating bear just waking from its slumber, and still has plenty of life ahead of it. If you open one soon, decant it about an hour before serving at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems, ideally alongside something wintry and savory preparations.
