We live in an era of hot takes, so here’s a hot take on Piedmont’s misunderstood, under-appreciated Dolcetto grape: After Nebbiolo, this is the variety you should be seeking out. Many Barbera partisans will howl in protest, but Barbera doesn’t have any problem finding love. Dolcetto, somehow, gets pushed aside—even more-obscure local reds like Pelaverga and Freisa have leap-frogged it in the consumer consciousness. That just isn’t right, and this fresh, deeply flavorful Dolcetto from Barolo icon Elio Grasso is exactly what a classic Dolcetto is supposed to be: bright, crunchy, dark-fruited, refreshing. It’s what a Barolo-maker like Grasso would recommend you drink while you wait for their Barolos to age. Good advice! 

Sourced from vines with an average age of 30 years, this Dolcetto d’Alba was harvested in mid-September and fermented in stainless steel tanks, during which time it was subjected to daily “pump-overs” (pumping the juice back over the grape skins, to facilitate extraction). It aged for about six months in tank before bottling. In the glass, it shows off a youthful purple-ruby hue, with a basket-full of woodland berry aromas jumping from the glass first. Scents of blackberry, black plum, lavender, violet, and black pepper are confirmed on the medium-bodied palate, which sets the salivary response in motion with freshness and a mild nip of tannin.